PERFUMERY TERMS FRAGRANCE

Absolutes are not strictly essential oils but are quite possibly the strongest aromatic materials. This technique was developed in the early 20th century. Absolutes belong to the rare and precious raw materials family. Absolutes are made from plant materials that often yield very little essential oil from steam distillation. Instead, the plant oils are removed through solvent extraction. They contain molecules of all sizes, some far less volatile than others.

A scent made from a combination of different notes. A blend of a minimum of two fragrant materials leading to a specific olfactory outcome.

In perfumery, when used alone often refers to ‘perfumer's’ alcohol, which is used as a carrier for colognes, perfume etc, such as ethyl alcohol or ethanol. The chemical group of alcohols called R-OH consists of several chemicals but their name often ends with ‘enol’ such as monoterpenol, sesquiterpenol and diterpenol – chemicals that are often found in essential oils.

A scent reminiscent of animals; musky and sensual. Alone, these are often described as having an unpleasant aroma but in very low dilutions lend a very pleasing value to a perfume blend. Animalic notes such as ambergris, castoreum, civet and musk are, in their original natural form, obtained from animal glandular secretions. Now often forbidden and replaced by synthetic materials, mainly to protect the animal species.

Loss of sense of smell. This can be the result of illness (such as a cold) or injury. Anosmia can be total total (no sense of smell at all but this is rare) or partial, whereby an individual cannot detect the smell of certain types/groups of molecules. Sometimes sensitivity to a certain smell can be increased after being exposed to it several times (when a certain aroma cannot be detected upon first exposure, an individual can 'train' their nose to become more sensitive to that aroma).

These glands do not usually out directly onto the skin’s surface (unlike eccrine sweat glands). Instead, they out into hair follicles close to the skin’s surface. The sweat secreted from these glands contains a chemical called Pheromone, which contributes to the individual’s natural & sexual scent. This can influence the characteristics of a perfume.

Sticky resin excreted from trees and shrubs which when cut that usually produce a sweet, woody aroma.

The heavy molecules at the end of a fragrance. A blend of several raw materials including synthetic molecules. These compositions can be a reproduction of flowers, like jasmine, or abstract.

Base notes are spicy, woody, amber or musk. Those notes that are the most persistent in perfumes. They form the foundation upon which the whole composition rests. They can last a few days and form the long-lasting “imprint” of the fragrance. They are also the most sensual notes, which allow the perfume to merge with the skin. Rich, deep notes that linger and become more defined over time.

Often described as being the ‘heart’ of an aromatic blend. It is the main character of a perfume. Can also be used to describe ‘roundness’ of a perfume.

Aroma that characterises the fresh & clean aspects of essential oils, often herbal varieties such as lavender, eucalyptus and rosemary.

Fresh, zesty and clean smelling - e.g. lemons, bergamot, lime, mandarin.

A classical perfume often has a floral structure and may contain anything up to 10% floral absolutes absolutes (which is a higher % than more contemporary fragrances)

Used to describe sweet, sickly aromas that tend to linger, or ‘cling’. Can occur when there is note variation and can be unpleasant.

Used to describe the concentrated perfume that has not yet been diluted into its carrier

Semi solid mass derived from plants. A product obtained from the extraction of plants, using volatile solvents. When the solvent is removed, it leaves a waxy mass that contains volatile plant oils, plant waxes and other extracts. An absolute is obtained from the concrete.

Also known as “middle notes”, these are the scents you start to notice after the top notes wear off. . Core notes are mainly floral, fruity or spicy. They can last a few hours.

Describes a perfume type and is normally comprised of fresh, citrus and/or green top notes that are built upon woody base notes (often rich and/or animalic aromas such as oakmoss, labdanum or patchouli). Many ‘male’ scents often have a chypre structure. An accord mainly comprising oak moss, bergamot, labdanum, patchouli, rose.

Describes the quality and complexity of an aroma/fragr

The process of purifying liquid, by heating and cooling. extraction method that allows one to collect essential oils of fresh or dried plants by steam evaporation.

The character of the perfume after several hours and is usually the base note (when the more volatile molecules have evaporated).

Tonic water with a mild fragrance, originating from Cologne, France. Today the term "cologne" is widely used to describe fresh perfumes that don’t only have citrus notes. Normally a term used to describe a light fragrance at a dilution of around 3% compound in a water/alcohol solution.

A term describing a fragrance that has a dilution of up to 15 -20% compound in an alcohol base. Contains higher levels of scent than Eau de Cologne, and less than pure Parfum.

Similar to Eau De Cologne whereby the compound is around 3-8% in a water/alcohol solution.

Character of an aroma/compound that smells like soil, mould, moss, earth etc. Oakmoss is a very good example.

An expensive and labour-intensive classical method of extracting aroma molecules from plant matter (since replaced by concretes). Petals and leaves etc were placed on trays of animal fat and left for days at a time and continually replaced until the fat became saturated with extracts – this was called a pomade. The oils were then extracted from the pomade with solvents.

Oils obtained by the distillation of liquids extracted from plants, flowers and spices. An essential oil is very concentrated aromatic molecule that is highly volatile. The term essential oil should only be applied to plant oils that have been obtained through expression or distillation.

A fragrance note that quickly disappears.

A term used to describe the extraction of essential oils by physical force/pressure and applies exclusively to citrus fruits, where the essential oil is stored in sacs under the rind’s surface.

The separation of fragrance from raw materials. This is another name for alcohol-based perfumes and can contain a compound up to 45% in alcohol. A few drops or sprays are enough to reveal the perfume over a very long period and create alchemy with the wearer’s skin.

Being exposed to the same aroma for extended periods can lead to odour fatigue whereby the aroma can no longer be detected. However, the nose can still detect other aromas.

A fixative is a material This can either be a long-lasting aromatic component (such as an essential oil) or other component to which the other materials bond.

Lifeless and aroma that may not be very pleasing. Simply in perfumery language aroma without any dimensions or facets.

Often associated with ‘natural’ and will have flowery notes.

A blend that has the characteristics of mossy, woody notes

Fresh, green scent, from the French word for fern. This fragrance is mainly structured around lemon, lavender, geranium and a coumarin accord.

Light and uplifting often having green and/or citrus notes. Green florals are also described as fresh.

An aroma that has depth and is nicely rounded

An aroma that is characterised by a freshness and ‘naturalness’ like that of cut grass or leaves

Exuded from the bark and leaves of trees and shrubs (also includes resins and balsams)

Having a herb-like ‘natural’ aroma akin to essential oils such as clary sage, rosemary, basil etc. Often cooling.

Refers to a specific group of citrus, notably bergamot and blood orange.

Often associated with a ‘fresh’ aroma and is not a dominant smell.

A chemical found naturally in many essential oils and tends to have a light floral note that is accented by a woody note.

A character of an aroma that has mossy notes and may resemble the smells of the forest. Oakmoss is a good example.

A type of distillation performed by very low vacuum pressure. A technique that allows one to rework essences and absolutes to get rid of undesired facets and obtain very pure raw materials.

A process which ages a perfume (like wine) so the scents intensify over time. The time required for a perfume (i.e. the perfume concentrate mixed with alcohol) to stabilize and realize its full potential from an olfactive standpoint. For the best result maceration most be conducted on large batches of perfume prior to bottling.

A process where physical materials are aged before being added to a fragrance. The time required for a perfume concentrate to stabilize and realize its full potential from an olfactive standpoint. This step takes place prior to maceration.

The terms natural, or naturals are used to describe raw materials, also known as ingredients, , that come from a natural plant or animal source. Fragrances that are made only from pure ingredients and do not contain synthetics. The term is generally applied to a specific raw material rather than the perfume composition.

A note depicts the aroma according to its volatility. In a compound, top notes will be detected by the nose first since they are quick to evaporate. Middle notes take longer than top notes to evaporate and form the heart of the fragrance, and bottom notes can take hours or even days to evaporate and are the last to be detected by the nose.

Relating to the sense of smell

A classification system used by many perfumery professionals. Perfumes are organized in “families” according to their dominant notes or Different fragrance groups: woody, green, oriental, floral, citrus, gourmand.

A style of fragrance that contains heavier notes which are well-rounded and long-lasting.

You often see the term ‘perfumer's palette’ which describes the range of aromatic materials available to the perfumer when formulating.

Parfum or Extrait - Perfume that contains the highest concentration of essential oils.

A fat that has been saturated with plant oils and forms part of the process of enfleurage.

This is a mixture of dried flowers and herbs.

This aroma can be achieved when a sweet, heavy note is blended with lighter citrus, fruity or green notes.

Extracts of resins/gums/balsams and frequently used as fixatives. A paste obtained after an extraction using volatile solvents, which is then used to make absolute.

Warm or hot characteristic of an aroma or compound.

A chemical made to mimic natural products

The first aroma encountered when perfume is applied. These are normally the most volatile molecules within the compound.

Refers to the thickness of a material.

Refers to a mellow and smooth aroma/fragrance.

Has a fragrance characteristic of wood.